Kuala Kurau

Kuala Kurau sits on the banks of the Kurau River, surrounded by rice fields. It is a working fishing town rather than a resort one, and that is most of its appeal.

The food

This is a seafood town. What comes off the boats goes straight into the kitchens, and the things to look for are soft-shell crab, cockles, and cucur udang — prawn fritters, which people will drive a long way for.

Kuala Kurau is also known for salted eggs and dried fish, made by family businesses that have been at it for generations. Both travel well if you want to take something home.

The river and the birds

The riverbank is good for birdwatching, and it gets considerably better during the migration season when the flocks come through.

A river cruise is the best way to see the town from the outside in — the stilt houses, the boats, and the fishermen working. If you want to try fishing yourself, there is usually somebody willing to show you how.

The markets

Small businesses are the backbone here. The markets are worth an hour: dried fish, salted eggs, and whatever else is being made locally that week.

Staying here

Kurau Inn is a few minutes from all of it, with the rice fields on the doorstep and the town close enough to walk or cycle into.